FAQs
- How can tartar formation on a dog's teeth be prevented?
- My young beagle's teeth accumulate tartar very rapidly. They have already been professionally cleaned once and shortly thereafter the teeth appeared to have significant tartar where his gums looked sore. Is there anything I can to do at home to prevent this?
By brushing the dog's teeth regularly in addition to veterinary dental care.
Dental plaque is a matrix of bacterial and salivary compounds that adhere to the enamel of the teeth. This material mineralizes into calculus (tartar) within a few days of professional teeth cleaning. Once plaque hardens to become calculus, a veterinarian must remove it by manual or electronic scaling.
Brushing the teeth regularly is the major way to prevent the accumulation of plaque on tooth surfaces and in crevices. The mechanical action of the toothbrush above and below the gum line is needed to limit this accumulation. Brushing the pet's teeth is not easy with all pets and is best begun at an early age to familiarize the pet with the process. Since your dog is young, it may be very easy to train to accept this procedure.
A veterinarian or technician will offer guidance in the best method of brushing and the best products to use such as toothpastes and brushes. Human toothpastes are not acceptable choices because they should not be swallowed.
Chew toys such as CET chews and rawhide strips, Kong Toys, Nylabones, tartar-preventing foods and rinses or gels are other products employed to limit the accumulation of plaque .
Please discuss these preventive strategies with your veterinarian. He or she may recommend another dental procedure to get your dog back to square one with clean teeth.
Please visit our VetCentric Encyclopedia for more information; see "Dental Disease, Canine." - What normal maintenance care does my cat need?
- What's the best way to keep my cat healthy? What kind of maintenance care does she need?
Visit the veterinarian regularly.
All kittens should go through examinations, deworming, multiple vaccinations, and neutering. After these are completed, your trips to the veterinarian will be much less frequent. Most healthy adult cats need to visit the veterinarian only once a year.
Vaccinations are continued throughout a cat's life. Most vaccinations are given once a year, although a rabies shot may be given as little as every three years based on the laws in your region. Outdoor cats are at a higher risk of contracting a fatal feline virus, and so require more vaccinations than those that stay indoors. We recommend that you keep your cat inside.
It is a good idea to have a sample of your cat's feces evaluated for parasites at least every one to two years. Outdoor cats are at increased risk of being exposed to parasites and should probably have this test done twice a year.
Heartworm medication is recommended to prevent heartworm infections in indoor and outdoor cats. Since mosquitoes can get inside the house, indoor cats are at risk of heartworm infection. This flavored medication is given once a month and is available from your veterinarian.
Monitor your cat's skin and haircoat for any signs of parasites or hair loss. Fleas and ticks not only are nuisances for cats that go outside, but also may cause diseases in your pet. Contact your veterinarian for safe and effective treatment and prevention products.
Routine brushing significantly reduces the incidence of hairballs and provides bonding time between you and your cat. This is especially important for heavy shedders, longhaired cats, and geriatric animals that may have trouble grooming themselves. A hairball remedy or treat may be used to help ingested fur move through the digestive tract and reduce the number of hairballs your cat vomits.
Maintain that perfect pedicure. Cats should have their toenails trimmed periodically to keep them from damaging your house, furniture, and skin. If this practice is started at a young age, the cat will tolerate it more easily throughout its life. Have an experienced person help you the first few times that you attempt to trim your cat's toenails.
Feel like brushing your cat's teeth? Some cats will tolerate brushing if it is started gradually and made a pleasant experience. Veterinary toothpaste must be used to prevent stomach upset. Most of these toothpastes are available in a chicken or tuna flavor that cats find appealing. Consult your veterinarian about brushing techniques and supplies.
Feed your cat a good quality adult maintenance cat food. It is not necessary to feed canned or semi-soft food or to provide a variety of food types, as feeding variation can lead to the creation of a finicky eater, not to mention stomach upset or diarrhea from abrupt changes in the diet. Dry kibble may help keep your cat's teeth and gums in better condition.
Be sure to provide plenty of fresh water daily. Some cats do not like to drink standing water. Drinking fountains, which have become widely available, may be a better idea for these felines.
Scoop the cat litter daily. Most cats are very picky about bathroom facilities, including the brand of litter that you use. Once you find a brand that you both find acceptable, stick with it for the long haul. This will cut down on the possibility of "mistakes" that you could find around the house.
Finally, be sure to give your cat plenty of tender loving attention and play time. Playing games will help keep that indoor cat from becoming overweight. Plus, those fun times together are what build a strong bond between pet and owner. - Is it safe for me to clip my pet's nails?
- I have heard that if an animal's nails are cut too short, the animal will bleed. Is it safe for me to clip my hamster's nails? And my dog's? How do I clip them?
It is safe if your veterinarian shows you how to cut them properly.
Yes, it is safe for you to clip your hamster's nails, but hamsters do not typically need to have their nails trimmed. Dogs and cats generally will need to have their nails clipped periodically, although cats will not usually need this very often. (Cats are very efficient at keeping nail length under reasonable control by biting them or clawing a scratching post or anything else that is handy.) Excessively long nails can cause discomfort and even damage to the footpads.
Before you attempt to clip your pet's nails for the first time, consult your veterinarian. Your veterinarian will instruct you in the proper, safe way to clip the animal's nails. After the veterinarian shows you the first time, you should be able to do the nail trims at home, if needed.
The method of clipping the nails in dogs, cats, and hamsters is essentially the same for all three species. Generally the nail (claw) is somewhat curved. There is a blood vessel that runs lengthwise in each nail that can be accidentally clipped if the nails are cut too short. This vessel ends at approximately the point where the nail begins to curve down. Clipping below this level usually misses the vessel. You should have styptic powder available, so if you accidentally cut the vessel, you can stop the bleeding by applying the powder. Direct pressure will also stop bleeding.
There are two types of nail clippers. One is the guillotine clipper, which has a sharp cutting loop attached to a handle. The nail is placed inside the loop at the level to be cut. Manipulating the handle pulls the cutting loop toward the handle, cutting the nail in the process. The other type of clipper roughly looks like a pair of scissors; the cutting action is very similar.
Some dogs appear to be unusually sensitive to the nail trimming experience even without any known trauma or bad experiences. Desensitization and positive reinforcement techniques may sometimes help. A veterinarian can provide information about these techniques when needed.
Sometimes nail drills will be better tolerated. These drills are used for grinding nails and are not painful if used properly, but they are very noisy. Nervous, shy dogs will probably not allow all of the toes to be done. Use of a drill may, in fact, create a new anxiety. In such cases, nail trimming may require veterinary attention and anesthesia.
For more information you may wish to read, "Pedicures for Pooches," in the VetCentric Magazine. - Why is tuna fish bad for cats?
- My veterinarian advised against my feeding tuna fish to my cat. My cat loves it! Why is tuna fish bad for cats?
Cats can develop yellow fat disease from having too much tuna.
Tuna fish, and many other fish species, contain relatively large amounts of unsaturated fats. Although health-minded people eat fish to decrease their consumption of saturated fats, the excessive unsaturated fat in a cat's diet may be harmful.
Tuna and certain other fish possess very little vitamin E. Vitamin E is an important antioxidant. When a cat's diet consists mostly of tuna fish that is not commercially formulated as cat food, the cat becomes deficient in vitamin E. Dietary unsaturated fats from the fish are oxidized by a biochemical called peroxidase into a substance called ceroid. Since the affected cat has low vitamin E levels, this oxidation process is not restrained. Ceroid, an abnormal, pigmented, yellow-brown breakdown product of unsaturated fat oxidation, is formed and deposited in fat cells. The result is yellow fat disease (steatitis).
Ceroid triggers an inflammatory response by the immune system as if it were a foreign invader. The subcutaneous fat of cats affected with yellow fat disease causes pain; these cats become hypersensitive and will resist handling and petting. The muscles of affected cats will atrophy and become weak; these cats do not want to move. As the disease process progresses, the body fat degenerates and is replaced by fibrotic tissue, leaving the skin hard and nodular. Affected cats may also develop fevers unrelated to infection.
Yellow fat disease occurs most commonly in young, overweight male and female cats with inappropriate diets. Treatment includes discontinuing the inappropriate diet and administering therapeutic doses of vitamin E. Corticosteroids may also be prescribed to relieve the inflammatory response.
Even if a tuna-fed cat receives prophylactic or supplemental doses of vitamin E, there are other problems besides steatitis that make feeding tuna unwise. Some believe that tuna contains specific substances (allergens) that stimulate allergic-like disorders in cats. Cats should be fed a balanced, commercially prepared diet to avoid these problems. - Should I breed my dog?
- I am thinking about breeding my dog. Is this a good idea?
Breeding can be costly and risky.
Unfortunately, most people don't realize how much work, time and expense is involved in the process of breeding.
The first thing that you must consider is whether your pet should be bred. Most pets, although lovable, are not of breeding quality. Genetic defects and other problems should not be perpetuated, because they can cause serious medical problems for future generations. People who breed dogs for a living are very careful about choosing which dogs they will breed based on physical characteristics and behavior.
Some people decide that it would be fun to breed and just start looking for a dog that has the proper equipment and is willing. This can be a huge mistake. Breeding your pet is a serious endeavor and should not be taken lightly. There are far too many pets that end up in shelters without good homes. If your breed of dog has large litters, what will you do if you are unable to sell the puppies? Do you want to contribute to the pet overpopulation problem?
In addition, there are many good reasons not to breed your dog. First, for the dog's own health. Male dogs that are neutered are less likely to be hit by cars. This is primarily due to the fact that male dogs have a very strong urge to roam and find a fertile female. Male dogs will go over or under fences, through doors and windows, and will pull leashes out of unsuspecting hands. Additionally, neutering greatly reduces the incidence of prostatic disease and testicular cancer.
Similar health benefits are found by spaying your female dog. If you have your female spayed before a year of age you greatly decrease her chances of developing breast cancer. Additionally, you eliminate the possibility of uterine infections and cancer. Another benefit is that you will not have to clean up after a messy heat cycle, or chase persistent male dogs out of your yard.
If you still feel that you want to breed your pet, note that dogs should be tested for a contagious disease called brucellosis prior to breeding. Not only does this disease cause spontaneous abortion in dogs, but humans can contract it as well. There is a blood test to screen for this disease that can be done by your veterinarian. Because dogs can carry this disease without showing any outward signs, screening for brucellosis is important. - How do I cure my dog's bad breath?
- My dog has very bad breath. I give him Milk Bones regularly and brush his teeth, but it does not help. What can I do to eliminate the odor?
Consult a veterinarian to determine the underlying cause and treat accordingly.
Bad breath, or halitosis, can be caused by many different medical and dental problems -- some of which may be serious. Because a potentially serious problem may be the cause of your dog's bad breath, you should make an appointment with your veterinarian for an examination to determine the cause. Some smaller breeds of dogs, such as poodles and Schnauzers, are well known for being predisposed to dental disease. Brachycephalic, or short-headed, dog breeds like the pug and bulldog also have a higher risk of developing dental problems.
Bad breath in dogs may be due to dental disorders such as periodontal disease, gingivitis and plaque buildup on the teeth, significant oral cavity disease such as abscesses, sores or ulcers, decaying tissue associated with cancer, and infections. Kidney and other organ system disease and diabetes and other metabolic problems may also cause halitosis.
Although some tartar control treats and brushing are helpful, if your dog's foul odor is due to plaque buildup, a professional dental cleaning will be necessary. More extensive dental problems may require specialized veterinary dental care. If other problems exist, such as infection, abscess, tumors, or metabolic or other systemic diseases, they will require veterinary attention. Please consult your veterinarian promptly.
For more information on eliminating bad breath in dogs and cats, please see our article in the Magazine section, titled: "When a Good Pet Has Bad Breath." To view this article, click on "Magazine" from the VetCentric homepage and enter the words, "bad breath" in the search box. - How do I introduce my dog to a new dog?
- We are adopting a one-year old retriever mix from the shelter. What is the best way of introducing him to our other two-year old female dog?
Introduce them gradually.
Because both dogs are young, this transition will be a little less stressful for you than if the dogs were older. Introducing pets that are not too set in their ways usually makes things easier. It also helps that one dog is female; female dogs tend to be more accepting of outsiders than a more dominant male.
It is helpful to try to introduce them very gradually. It would be a good idea if the dogs could meet for the first time on neutral territory. Try taking them to a park or some location that is not on either one of their "turfs." Keep the dogs on leashes and allow them to sniff each other but do not give them the opportunity to fight. This interaction will give you a starting point. If there is aggression on neutral territory it may be quite difficult to move them in together.
It will be very important for you to reinforce the dominance hierarchy once established. This means that when one dog establishes itself as the top dog and wants attention you must give it to the dominant dog and rebuff the other if it comes seeking attention. This may be hard for you to do as most people feel for the "underdog." Unfortunately, if you push the dominant dog away to pet the dog of lower status, it can cause the top dog to punish the other pet.
In most cases there will not be an altercation, but be prepared for one anyway. Keep your pets on leashes even in the house. DO NOT GET BETWEEN FIGHTING DOGS. Even if your pets love you, when they are fighting they may bite you. Use their attached leashes to separate them.
Remember that gradual introduction is the key. Do not expect them to be best friends right away; tolerance is a good thing too.
There is a very good article on VetCentric.com about introducing a new cat to the household. Most of the principles outlined there can be applied to dogs as well. Also, talk to your veterinarian. If there are problems, the doctor is your best source of information. If the problems are significant he or she may also recommend that a short course of medication is necessary to facilitate the transition. - Can giving glucosamine for long periods be harmful to dogs?
- We have been giving our 10-year old Lab-mix glucosamine daily and she is much more energetic and playful, but I'm concerned because this non-prescription medication is a human medication. Could it be harmful?
Generally it is safe.
Glucosamine is a nutraceutical product that has gained a lot of popularity. This compound is available in many forms, some of which are specifically designed for veterinary use. Primarily, glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate are used to help diminish the symptoms associated with osteoarthritis, which is the "wear and tear" type of arthritis. Although the usefulness of purified glycosaminoglycan has been documented, the efficacy of the oral combination product of glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate is in dispute. Additionally, the formulations for these products are not standardized, making them even more difficult to evaluate.
The chondroitin portion of the supplement increases the elasticity of cartilage and may have anti-inflammatory properties. Both glucosamine and chondroitin are required for proteoglycan synthesis. These compounds assist in the joint's recovery from the constant trauma of the osteoarthritis. Theoretically, they are given as a source of cartilage matrix precursors and to stimulate regeneration. Unfortunately, the exact mechanism of action is poorly understood. Controlled studies for the effectiveness of these compounds are lacking. In general, these products are safe and have only a minimal chance of producing toxicity or allergic reactions. Minor gastrointestinal effects of soft stool and flatulence are usually overcome by reducing he dose.
If you find that these nutraceuticals are helping to improve your dog's quality of life, discuss their use with your veterinarian to make sure that they are the best choice for her.
For more information about arthritis in your pet you may want to read "Arthritis Cure Eludes Animals and Owners" on our Web site at http://www.vetcentric.com. - Why is my dog's nose so dry and crusty?
- My dog is six years old and has an extremely hard, dry, crusty nose. Parts of it even flake off. It used to be shiny and moist. What causes this and is it serious?
There are several possible causes.
There are numerous causes for a dry, crusty nose. This is definitely a problem that a veterinarian or veterinary dermatologist should address for you. Some potential causes include endocrine or hormonal disorders, disorders of the immune system, infectious agents, inflammatory diseases, underlying metabolic disorders, and cancer. Some older dogs just get a dry nose as part of the aging process.
The history of the problem, physical exam findings, and diagnostic tests are all used in diagnosing and treating the problem. As far as diagnostics, a blood chemistry panel and urinalysis are excellent screening tests to narrow the range of possible problems. Conducting more specific blood tests can eliminate most of the remaining diagnostic possibilities. Additionally, a skin scraping, impression smear, and skin biopsy are procedures that may be needed to make definitive diagnosis.
Your veterinarian may be able to do all of these procedures or may wish to refer you to a veterinarian who specializes in dermatologic disorders. Good luck in your endeavors. - My puppy keeps urinating in the house. What is the best way to clean up the mess?
- My puppy is constantly relieving himself all over the house. It's driving me crazy! Can you suggest a way to clean it up?
Use an odor neutralizer.
Most puppies have at least a few accidents during the housebreaking stage. These need to be thoroughly cleaned up so that the puppy does not return to the same spot in the future. If your puppy is having many accidents, you should readjust your housebreaking techniques.
The best way to clean up a spot of urine is to soak up as much of it as possible. If the spot is on linoleum or another hard surface, paper towels and disinfectant can be used. If the urine spot is on a rug, cover the spot with a paper towel and some layers of newspaper. You can stand on the spot to draw out as much urine as possible.
Once the urine is soaked up, it is necessary to use an odor neutralizer to eliminate the lingering odor of ammonia. If a dog smells any residual urine odor, it is likely to urinate in the same area again. Many pet stores and veterinarians carry effective urine odor neutralizers.
Remember that your puppy is just like a baby and needs to be monitored at all times. Most puppies will show subtle signs that they need to go to the bathroom prior to having an accident. If you can't be right there beside your puppy at all times, it should be left in a crate. A dog views a crate as a private den that it will not want to soil with urine or feces.
It is also important to establish a set routine and stick to it every day. Most puppies need to eliminate frequently when they are young, especially after heavy eating or playing. Paper training is used by some owner, but this method should be viewed as a temporary approach to training. Crate training is a much more efficient means of housebreaking a dog.
More information on submissive urination can be found here: Submissive Urination in Dogs - What causes many white cats to be deaf?
- We just adopted a two-year old white male cat. We have had him for a week and he appears to be deaf, which I guess is common in white cats. What causes this? Are there any special needs or care he should have?
Congenital deafness in white cats is a genetic problem.
Although not every white-haired cat is congenitally deaf, there is a strong genetic tendency linking deafness with complete or relative absence of pigment (hypopigmentation) in the hair, skin, and irises of the eyes. This genetic process is known to occur in other animals and humans as well. The white hair trait is inherited on an autosomal dominant gene. All cats with this gene will have a white hair coat. About one out of twenty cats have the gene and are therefore white.
The white hair gene is closely related to a set of genes that govern the early embryonic development of tissue that ultimately becomes the cochlea of the inner ear and the cells that give the eyes their color. Blue eyes result from hypopigmentation as well and are also inherited. However, not every cat with these genes will develop blue eyes. Some cats will have one blue eye and one fully pigmented "normal" one. Generally, white cats have a higher incidence of congenital deafness than cats of other colors. White cats with one blue eye have an even higher chance of being deaf. White cats with two blue eyes have the greatest risk of being deaf; these cats may have as much as five times the chance of being deaf as white cats with normal-colored eyes. Most white cats with two blue eyes are deaf and many white cats with one blue eye are deaf as well.
The cochlea of the inner ear contains the receptor cells that respond to sound waves and enable the cat to hear. The genetic mechanism underlying hypopigmentation of the hair and eyes also results in hypopigmentation of certain tissues within the cochlea. The lack of pigmentation is thought to lead to degeneration of vital tissue in the cochlea, which leads to a loss of hearing. The deafness may be in both ears or in one ear only. The presence of these genes does not cause deafness in all cats, however. The reason for this incomplete penetrance of the genetic trait is poorly understood. However, as a preventive measure, white cats with blue eyes probably shouldn't be bred.
Sophisticated hearing tests are available in limited areas, but crude pitch pipe or tuning fork tests are performed routinely by neurologists and other specialists to detect hearing loss. There is no treatment available for congenital deafness.
Cats rely on their sense of hearing for much of their daily activities. Some anatomists maintain that this is in fact their most important special sense. They hunt by sound and also use it to communicate. For domestic cats that live indoors hearing is not so important. In fact you probably don't need to take special precautions, provided the cat lives (and stays) indoors.
Cats with deafness or blindness make great pets. If they have combined problems their life may be more challenging, but not impossible. - Are preputial discharges normal in dogs?
- My 14-week old puppy has been having green pus on his sheath after urinating. What is this and is it serious?
Normally dogs should not have preputial discharges.
Normally dogs should have no preputial discharge. Sometimes dogs may have a small amount of yellow-white smegma that can accumulate around the opening of the prepuce.
Since your puppy has a discharge with green pus, he probably has balanoposthitis. This is an inflammatory condition of the glans penis and prepuce. Usually balanoposthitis is caused by bacterial infection, although fungal and herpesvirus infections occasionally may cause it as well. Some dogs develop balanoposthitis when foreign bodies such as grass awns become trapped under the prepuce.
Mild cases are typically not very significant clinically. However, you should take your dog to the veterinarian for an examination. He or she may take samples of the discharge for a cytology analysis and culture and sensitivity test. These laboratory studies will identify infecting organisms, if present, and what antimicrobial drugs are effective against them.
Your veterinarian may also perform a urinalysis and other tests to rule out urinary tract disorders and other problems. The doctor will advise you of the appropriate treatment if treatment is needed. - What is the treatment for Bordetella infection?
- If my dog contracts Bordetella, is there a treatment for it that my veterinarian can prescribe?
Antibiotics are prescribed.
Bordetella is a common bacterial pathogen of the respiratory system of dogs. It is less common in cats. There are numerous antibiotic treatments that have demonstrated effectiveness against these bacteria. Some strains are resistant to treatment. A bacterial culture of respiratory secretions, with antibiotic susceptibility pattern, may be required to identify the most effective treatment.
If the bacterial infection is contributing to kennel cough (infectious tracheobronchitis), cough suppressants and bronchodilators may be prescribed, along with antibiotics. Most patients can be successfully treated as outpatients; this is encouraged because kennel cough is very contagious. The typical course is 10 to 14 days for uncomplicated cases of kennel cough. The course may be limited by restricting activity. For more information you may want to read about kennel cough in the VetCentric encyclopedia.
Your veterinarian can offer you many treatment options, if necessary. - Why does my dog frequently lick his paws and limbs?
- My dog nibbles and licks the top of his forepaws and the front of his forelimbs. He seems obsessive about doing this, usually after being outdoors. He does not break the skin. What could be his problem?
Why does my dog frequently lick his paws and limbs?
There are several possible reasons that dogs excessively lick or bite their paws and limbs. Allergies, arthritis pain, neoplasia (growths) and even boredom are some of the more common causes. These lesions can vary in their severity depending on the cause and how persistent the dog is about licking them.
It would be a good idea to have your veterinarian examine your dog to determine the underlying cause for the licking and to offer treatment options. He or she may perform some tests, including bloodwork and possibly radiographs (x-rays) to help diagnose the underlying condition.
It may be that your dog is itchy because of allergies. Allergens are substances that cause an allergic reaction in affected animals. While it is possible that your pet is simply being fastidious when he comes in the house, the more likely explanation is that he is being exposed to allergens on his trips outside. Dogs, like people, may be affected by pollen and other airborne allergens. Unlike people, however, inhalant allergy symptoms in dogs more commonly include itching, hair loss, ear infections, dermatitis (skin inflammation or irritation) and other skin problems. Dogs do not tend to get runny eyes and sneezing episodes as much as human allergy sufferers. Depending on where you live, your pet's worst allergy time may vary seasonally.
Inhalant allergies, or atopy, can sometimes be managed simply by reducing the exposure to the allergens and with the use of antihistamine or other allergy medication and special shampoos. In severe cases, it may be better to have your pet tested for specific allergies and treated, if necessary, with allergy shots, which are essentially vaccinations against the allergens. This approach can greatly reduce the need for anti-inflammatory medications that may produce unwanted side effects. Veterinary dermatologists are specially trained to conduct allergy testing and to formulate an appropriate allergy serum.
Hypersensitivity or adverse reaction to food components is a possible cause of itchy feet and extremities that results in licking and chewing. Patients develop allergies to inhaled or ingested allergens over time, usually after months or years of continuous exposure. While atopy is often a seasonal problem, adverse reactions to food are usually year-round.
To prevent your dog from licking his feet and limbs, you may want to put an Elizabethan collar on him or even try using a long-sleeve tee shirt while treatment is ongoing. If your dog continues to lick or bite himself, he is at risk of developing acral lick dermatitis, which is a skin condition that may become infected.
Please take your dog to the veterinarian to find the root of the problem.
You may want to look in the VetCentric Encyclopedia for these articles: "Inhalant Allergy," "Food Allergy," and "Acral Lick Granuloma." - How can I stop my cat from urinating outside the litter box?
- My cat will not urinate in her litter box. Instead, she urinates everywhere else in the house, including the area right next to the litter box. What can we do to stop this?
Manage the litter box.
Unfortunately, this is a very common problem for cat owners. It is possible that your cat is exhibiting this behavior because of an underlying medical disorder, so the pet should be examined by a veterinarian to rule out disease as a cause of inappropriate urination. Cats may urinate in inappropriate places because of urinary tract infections, bladder stones, and feline lower urinary tract disease. Tests such as urinalysis, bloodwork, and x-rays of the abdomen may identify the presence of such medical problems.
However, inappropriate urination is most often a behavioral problem. One of the most common reasons that cats stop using the litter box is that the box is not kept clean enough for their tastes. Boxes need to be scooped at least daily, and the litter should be changed frequently. Many cats are best accommodated with two separate boxes: one for urination and one for defecation. Both boxes must be kept clean. If you have multiple cats, many veterinarians recommend that you provide at least one litter box per cat. You may want to provide litter box access on each floor of the house.
Also consider whether your cat has access to the litter box. Is there a closed door blocking your cat's path to the litter box? In addition, a dog that stands guard or a dominant cat may not permit the affected cat to use the box. Other causes of aversion to the litter box include proximity to appliances that are noisy, such as televisions and washing machines, and those that turn on or off by use of a timer. Cats that are disturbed in the litter box by another cat, child, or dog may develop a litter box aversion as well.
It is possible that your cat is reacting to a change in the box location or type of litter. Some cats are very particular about where they go, and others are sensitive to the perfumes or dust in the litter. It may be necessary to try different types of litter -- for example, a non-clumping clay litter versus a sand-like clumping one -- until you find one that meets your pet's needs. In addition, if you provide the cat with a covered litter box, you might try switching to an uncovered box to see if the pet prefers it.
There are other methods for controlling inappropriate urination. You may want to move the litter box to the area where your cat is urinating. Always clean the soiled areas of your home with a non-ammonia cleaner. Because cats are drawn to the scent of urine, they may continue to go in the same inappropriate site if they are stimulated by the smell of previous accidents. The best cleaning products contain enzymes that degrade the urine and prevent stains. These products should be available through your veterinarian or local pet store. Because your cat may have a preference for carpet, you can change the way the area feels by using plastic carpet protectors or aluminum foil. This substrate change may make the litter box a preferred spot. In some cases, you may want to move your cat's food bowl to the area that she had previously soiled. Because cats are fastidious they don't like to eat and eliminate in the same place.
It is important to talk to your veterinarian about the inappropriate urination. He or she will have some additional suggestions tailored to the specific needs of your cat. In some cases, medication can be helpful in controlling the problem, but it is usually reserved for cases where other possibilities have been exhausted. Veterinary behavioral specialists may offer additional insights. - How can I stop my cat from defecating outside the litter box?
- My cat suddenly has begun defecating on my bedroom carpet instead of in the litter box. What can I do to stop this behavior?
A problem with many causes.
Unfortunately, this is one of the most common behavioral complaints of cat owners.
There are several factors that may contribute to cats defecating inappropriately. Environmental or social stress, personal preferences or changes in personal preferences, or medical problems may cause this behavior.
Although most feline elimination disorders are behavioral, to rule out a medical problem, your veterinarian will need to do a complete physical examination, urinalysis, and a fecal exam. If your cat is middle-aged or older, then the doctor may also opt to perform bloodwork including a complete blood count and a chemistry panel. Cats with feline lower urinary tract disease or cystitis may begin to defecate and/or urinate outside the litter box.
It can be difficult to determine whether cats begin defecating outside of the box because they have developed a disliking to a certain litter, or to a location, as opposed to simply preferring to defecate in the new location.
The development of a disliking or aversion to a particular substrate or litter is much more likely than avoidance of a particular location. Cats can develop an aversion to anything from clumpable litter, to an odor, to certain noises, to extraneous smells, and many other things.
If possible, offer the affected cat a wide variety of different types of cat litter in a combination of different depths. You could try changing the litter and leaving the box in the same location. In addition, providing a second litter box in the area that has been chosen as the unwanted place to defecate may be helpful. Some cats require separate litter boxes for urination and defecation. Generally, if there are elimination problems in the house, each cat should have at least one box. And there should be at least one box per floor in multi-floored homes.
Cats typically do not develop aversions to locations, but they may if the litter box is associated with the presence of any undesirable individual such as another cat, a dog, or a child. Perhaps your cat had a bad experience while at the previous litter box. Another pet could have disturbed your cat while it was defecating, causing it to have a negative association with the box. Also, if the litter box is close to a television, alarm clock, or other noisy object, your cat may have developed an aversion to defecating there.
It is a good idea to place another litter box in a new location where your cat has begun defecating. You can use the same litter and the same box, or buy another box. If your pet begins to use the new box, then gradually move the box an inch each day until it is in a more desirable spot. If you move the litter box too quickly, however, the cat may relapse. In addition, if another pet begins tormenting the affected cat while it defecates in this new place, then the problem may begin again.
Something else to consider is the personality of your cat. Shy cats may need a covered litter box. Another idea is to place your cat's food and water in the bedroom to see if this deters him; most pets will not defecate in the same area that they eat.
You could also try a scat mat. These are sold at many pet stores, and they send a mild shock when an animal stands on them. Yet, although a scat mat may deter defecation in the bedroom, your cat may very well pick another inappropriate place.
If your cat is medically normal, and other behavioral techniques have been exhausted, your veterinarian may recommend medical treatment with anti-anxiety medications. Consult your veterinarian about this problem for more information and suggestions. Veterinary behavioral specialists may offer additional insights. - How can I stop my cat from defecating outside the litter box?
- My cat suddenly has begun defecating on my bedroom carpet instead of in the litter box. What can I do to stop this behavior?
A problem with many causes.
Unfortunately, this is one of the most common behavioral complaints of cat owners.
There are several factors that may contribute to cats defecating inappropriately. Environmental or social stress, personal preferences or changes in personal preferences, or medical problems may cause this behavior.
Although most feline elimination disorders are behavioral, to rule out a medical problem, your veterinarian will need to do a complete physical examination, urinalysis, and a fecal exam. If your cat is middle-aged or older, then the doctor may also opt to perform bloodwork including a complete blood count and a chemistry panel. Cats with feline lower urinary tract disease or cystitis may begin to defecate and/or urinate outside the litter box.
It can be difficult to determine whether cats begin defecating outside of the box because they have developed a disliking to a certain litter, or to a location, as opposed to simply preferring to defecate in the new location.
The development of a disliking or aversion to a particular substrate or litter is much more likely than avoidance of a particular location. Cats can develop an aversion to anything from clumpable litter, to an odor, to certain noises, to extraneous smells, and many other things.
If possible, offer the affected cat a wide variety of different types of cat litter in a combination of different depths. You could try changing the litter and leaving the box in the same location. In addition, providing a second litter box in the area that has been chosen as the unwanted place to defecate may be helpful. Some cats require separate litter boxes for urination and defecation. Generally, if there are elimination problems in the house, each cat should have at least one box. And there should be at least one box per floor in multi-floored homes.
Cats typically do not develop aversions to locations, but they may if the litter box is associated with the presence of any undesirable individual such as another cat, a dog, or a child. Perhaps your cat had a bad experience while at the previous litter box. Another pet could have disturbed your cat while it was defecating, causing it to have a negative association with the box. Also, if the litter box is close to a television, alarm clock, or other noisy object, your cat may have developed an aversion to defecating there.
It is a good idea to place another litter box in a new location where your cat has begun defecating. You can use the same litter and the same box, or buy another box. If your pet begins to use the new box, then gradually move the box an inch each day until it is in a more desirable spot. If you move the litter box too quickly, however, the cat may relapse. In addition, if another pet begins tormenting the affected cat while it defecates in this new place, then the problem may begin again.
Something else to consider is the personality of your cat. Shy cats may need a covered litter box. Another idea is to place your cat's food and water in the bedroom to see if this deters him; most pets will not defecate in the same area that they eat.
You could also try a scat mat. These are sold at many pet stores, and they send a mild shock when an animal stands on them. Yet, although a scat mat may deter defecation in the bedroom, your cat may very well pick another inappropriate place.
If your cat is medically normal, and other behavioral techniques have been exhausted, your veterinarian may recommend medical treatment with anti-anxiety medications. Consult your veterinarian about this problem for more information and suggestions. Veterinary behavioral specialists may offer additional insights. - Can surgery significantly help a damaged cruciate ligament?
- My German shepherd has an old cruciate ligament injury, with arthritis apparent on the x-rays. I must decide whether to have it operated on or not. He is only two and one-half years old, but I hesitate to put him through the surgery if pain and restricted activity are likely to result. Will surgery make a significant improvement in his quality of life? What should we do?
Yes, the progression of disabling arthritis may be slowed or halted.
Your dog will do better in the long run if you have the surgery performed. The arthritis that is present is irreversible; but with surgery, the progression can be slowed or halted. Additionally, substantial cartilage damage will continue to occur until the knee is properly stabilized. This damage could result in marked worsening of your dog's lameness.
Many veterinarians have witnessed substantial recovery and improved function in dogs after surgery, especially when significant arthritis is present. There are several surgical approaches to treating a damaged cruciate ligament; in many veterinarians' opinions, the TPLOG procedure is more likely to afford the best result.
Tibial Plateau Leveling Osteotomy® (TPLO) is a technique that utilizes a different approach to treating cranial cruciate ligament injury than other procedures. Rather than trying to oppose the forces acting on the cranial cruciate ligament in the normal knee joint, a TPLO® eliminates these forces -- and thus the need for a cranial cruciate ligament -- by changing the anatomy of the knee joint. This procedure requires that a bone cut be made in the tibia that is then stabilized with a specialized bone plate. Only veterinarians that have been trained and licensed by the developer of the technique are permitted to perform this surgery. In general, dogs weighing less than 40 pounds are too small for this procedure.
Should you decide not to pursue surgery, then you must realize that your dog may not be able to function beyond a relatively sedentary lifestyle. Good luck with your decision.
For additional information, there is an excellent article in our VetCentric Encyclopedia regarding cruciate ligament disease. - Why does my indoor pet need vaccinations?
- Why does my pet need vaccinations? He rarely goes outside--and even then, only when I am with him.
There's always a risk of infection.
Although your pet may have a low risk of getting diseases from other animals, vaccinations are important because infection is always a possibility. Some viruses can linger in the environment for some time, long after the animals that deposited them have passed. And some viruses, such as parvo, are severe enough to cause death.
We feel that we cannot emphasize enough the importance of having your pet regularly vaccinated against rabies. Rabies is a fatal virus -- not only in many pets, but also in other mammals, including humans. Consequently, rabies vaccination is required by law in all of the United States. Rabid animals act very strangely, lose their fear of humans and other animals, and could approach you and your pet even in the middle of the day. Further, bats are known to get inside houses accidentally, and could spread rabies indoors. If your pet is not current on its rabies shot, and it bites or nips a human being, your regional health department could require the euthanasia to test your pet for rabies. The cost of a rabies vaccination is very cheap, especially when compared with the heartache that could be encountered if it is not done.
The decision to vaccinate against other contagious diseases is one that each owner has to make on a case-by-case basis. Because not all pets have the same risk of exposure to certain diseases, not all pets need the same vaccinations. Certain vaccines, such as that for feline leukemia, are recommended only if a cat is spending time outdoors, where it could be involved in a fight. Your veterinarian will make a recommendation depending on your pet's individual situation. But as a general rule, it is much easier and safer to prevent contagious illnesses than it is to treat them.
